Bev Tappan

Category: Travel Logs

Posts about travels

  • St. John Trip

    November 29 -December 15, 2002

    On Friday 29Nov02 – we flew from Albany to St. Thomas arriving on time in the midafternoon. Jumped into a van for a swooping ride up over ridges and around curves on narrow, twisting roads with spectacular views of bays and offshore islands, driving on the left, down to Red Hook peninsula for the 5 PM ferry with minutes to spare.

    A 20 minute ferry ride to St. John’s port city of Cruz Bay and onto an awning-covered taxi for the equally swooping ride to Cinnamon Bay Campground in the Virgin Islands National Park. Here we checked in and loaded our baggage onto a big pushcart, bought a few food supplies in the camp store and lighted our flashlights for the walk to our tent…a large army platform tent with iron beds, good screens and overhang sheltering the pienic table, propane stove and lamp.
    Put the sheets on the beds and stored food in the cooler and locker provided. Supper on leftover airplane food and a tropical rum cooler. The tree frogs are so noisy along with the sound of surf washing ashore that it takes awhile to get to sleep.

    Sat. Nov. 30 – Returned our cart and picked up a cooking kit at the front desk to prepare oatmeal and coffee at our campsite. Walked along Cinnamon Bay beach, the longest on the island, all fine sand. Sandwiches at our campsite and a visit from a black and yellow “banana quit” (a chickadee size bird that loves sweets). Walked the camp nature trail that starts across the road from the entrance in the ruins of an early 18″ c sugarcane factory and estate (foreman’s) house as well as a later bay rum factory. Signs along the trail show pearlyeyed thrashers, which we have seen, and quail doves, which we hear, golden orb spiders, large shiny black millipeds, orange throated anoles or tree lizards, mango, calabash, bayrum and other trees. Went for a swim, cooked Kung Pao Chicken camp meal and played UpWords.

    Sun. Dec. 1 – An hour of kayaking on a double floatboat pushing upwind to the yacht harbor in Maho Bay, then drifting back around our cay (island). Delightful surf and breezes. Saw diving red boobies. At lunch (pic) a giant black millipede was on our kapok tree trunk and doves pecked around on our path. Swim and shower in
    Happy hour with rum and tromical ivice drinirs
    PM and to camp store for ice, etc. Happy hour with rum and tropical juice drinks.
    Mon. Dec. 2 Took taxi to Trunk Bay and swam the snorkeling trail with its underwater signs out to the island and back. Took a break and did it again. Pretty good coral and fish including pumpkinseed parrotfish. Lunch at their picnio tabloc

    Sun. Dec. 1 An hour of kayaking on a double floatboat pushing upwind to the yacht harbor in Maho Bay, then drifting back around our cay (island). Delightful surf and breezes. Saw diving red boobies. At lunch a giant black millipede was on our kapok tree trunk and doves pecked around on our path. Swim and shower in PM and to camp store for ice, etc. Happy hour with rum and tropical juice drinks.

    Mon. Dec. 2 – Took taxi to Trunk Bay and swam the snorkeling trail with its underwater signs out to the island and back. Took a break and did it again. Pretty good coral and fish including pumpkinseed parrotfish. Lunch at their picnic tables in company of pearlyeyed thrasher. Taxi to Cruz Bay for email check at Connections and groceries at the Dolphin Market. Back to tent for nap and happy hour with the last of Ruth’s chestnuts. Another passing shower added to several during the night. Ranger slideshow in evening showing island history and nature at the ampitheater. On path we see big soldier land crabs with red legs.

    Tues. Dec. 3 – Hiked up Centerline Trail to View Point and back, about 3 miles. Huge termite nest in tree. Lots of land snail shells. Mongoose sighted at camp. They are not numerous as the rangers have been eliminating them to save the birds. A mama and baby donkey hang out on our path during lunch, the baby lying down for a nap. They move on in time for us a take a swim.

    Wed. Dec. 4 – Shuttle taxi to Annaberg picnic area and 2 mile walk along Leinster Bay Trail (Old Danish Road) to Waterlemon Bay where we spend 2 hours snorkeling out to the cay (island) and back. Lovely sea turtles near the shore and skate or manta ray burying itself in the sand. A squadron of pelicans taking off the the trees and plopping down all around us to feed on the billions of small fry in this bay. Many corals: Lavender fan, brain, staghorn, red post and others. Many parrotfish, trumpet fish, angelfish, tang, neons and others. The old Minolta underwater camera took on moisture and went haywire. Hitched a free ride back to camp on the Maho Bay Shuttle.

    Thurs. Dec. 5 – Snorkeled north end of Cinnamon Bay along the shore, during a brief shower at the end, which does not interfere with the viewing, a new experience. The drops look different from underwater. These frequent showers encourage the tree frogs to come up out of their bromeliad nests at night. As soon as the sun goes down they start to tune up, a chirp here and a click there, then the shaking of a million sleigh bells.

    Fri. Dec. 6 – Hiked the 2 miles to Centerline Road but missed the bus so hitched 2 rides to Salt Pond, the first with a carpenter who is doing well building vacation homes in Coral Bay, and the second with two young men who are having a vacation home built there. Wore our water boots as the shore is coral here. Snorkeled an hour on the right shore, rather windy but OK. After lunch we hiked up Ram Head, about two miles, along the shore and up onto a high ridge peninsula which is where a revolting group of slaves once threw themselves off rather than go back into slavery. Great views of surf crashing below and many barrel cacti, as this is a semi desert part of the island. Caught the 2:15 bus back to our Centerline Road Trailhead and hiked down into camp.

    Sat. Dec. 7 – Alan’s 80th birthday! Celebrated with a waterfront lunch at the Caribbean Grill Rambalaya with Bech and AmstelLite beers and shrimp and Carib chicken salads. Also check email, bought groceries and gift Tshirts and admired the park Christmas tree. It is strange to see decorations on palms and hear reggae carols among the bougainvillea. Alan used his weatherman skills to provide a perfectly clear and sunny Carib day.

    Sun Dec. 8 – Got our linens and towels exchanged and went to the beach to snorkel around our cay. Wonderful visibility in the morning sun and the best coral and fish we have seen yet. Relatively light breezes too. Then walked the Cinnamon Bay beach in both directions. During lunch a few showers came through but we were under shelter. Put out some tangerine to attract the banana quits and also filled the half coconut shell hanging over our grill with water for them. After supper we treated ourselves to a shared slice of pecan pie and spent the evening listening to a reggae trio, two lady singers and a one-man band guitar player with recorded keyboard. They did reggae carols, rock and roll, big band songs, blues…reggae everything. Very good. Some campers got up and danced.

    Mon. Dec. 9 – Walked with a couple from St. Louis back to Waterlemon Bay for another grand snorkel, this time up along the right side of the cay and back. Several large sea turtles, one with a long slender yellow and black remora attached to his head and feeding on something. Hitched a ride back with a young couple from Alabama who were interested in seeing our campground. The Ranger’s slideshow this evening showed island critters such as the red love bugs we have seen clustered in the paths, the big striped frangipangi caterpillars and the night heron. One of which we encountered stalking in the light of our flashlights among the bushes on our walk back to our tent.

    Tues. Dec. 10 – Took it easy most of the day and then went for a half hour snorkel at the north end of the beach. Saw an interesting new fish long and striped like a rattlesnake and Iying flat on the bottom like a flounder. I finally beat Alan at UpWords in the evening after three losses in a row, but he triumphed again in a second game.

    Wed. Dec. 11 – Shuttled to Caneel Bay and hiked the Caneel Hill Trail via Margaret Hill and Caneel Hill with views of Cruz Bay and Mt. Thomas, two miles in two hours. Several soldier crabs and tarantula holes on the trail. Sandwiches in Cruz Bay Park watching the park hens and chicks and rooster peeking around, Humming bird and tiger striped butterfly at shuttle stop.

    Thurs. Dec. 12 – A lazy day in camp – got our fresh linens and a new block of ice. Took a beach walk. Put out papaya peels at lunch and soon had 6-8 banana quits pecking at them. Flew the traveling kite on the beach and watched the windsurfers speeding in and out of the bay. Our days fall into a rhythm natural to the climate. We get up with the sun as it shows over the ridge behind us about 7:30. Swimming is best before 11 AM or after 2 PM to avoid sunburn. Supper must be eaten by 5:30 or it will be eaten in the dark. Evenings are spent in the open air restaurant where fans and lighted tables are available. Tonight we indulged in the biweekly barbecue at the Tree Lizards Restaurant.

    Fri. Dee. 13 – Shuttle to Francis Bay Trailhead and one mile walk to the beach. Snorkeled along the north shore. Many and larger fish including barracudas, silver angelfish, sea bass, etc. Hiked up to Maho Bay Resort for an icecream bar on their boardwalk.

    Sat. Dec. 14 – Perfect tradewinds for our last day. Snorkeled out to the cay and along both sides. Sunlight showed the purple fans and other soft corals to best advantage. Saw our first squid of this visit. Also pink squirrelfish with dark hooded eyes.

    Sun. Dec. 15 – Plenty of time before our 5 PM flight so ate lunch on the ferry dock and took the long (40 minute) ferry ride to downtown Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas’ capital city, near the airport. On time and early flights back to Albany about midnight. Airport Valet Parking sent their van to pick us up and had our car warmed up and running, so we jumped into our winter coats and drove home through snow banks, making the adjustment to winter climes with minimal discomfort. Another grand Caribbean getaway!

  • Cascades’ Trip

    September 3 – 24, 2002

    If you want to hear more about this, read on. Otherwise delete.

    We flew out to Sacramento on Tuesday Sept 3 and were met at the airport by Alan’s sister Barbara, who drove us to her house in Davis, where the State Agricultural University is located.

    The next day, after admiring her garden full of roses, we left by car for Mt. Lassen, first of the Cascade volcanic peaks in our itinerary. After a coffee break at the Sacramento Wildlife Refuge to see the displays of all the birds that would be migrating into there in November, we reached the south entrance fo Lassen Volcano National Park in midafternoon.

    The late sun burnished the bare peaks of vari-colored volcanic mineral as we drove steadily upward from 1000 to 8000 foot altitude, leaving the lodgepole for the ponderosa pines. A herd of mule deer in the King’s Creek mountain meadow ambled into the trees.

    Canyons, steep dropoffs and other breathtaking vistas entertained us until we left the park on the north side and made our way to our rather aged little cabin in Rim Rock Ranch, Hat Creek, CA. Luckily we found a brand new restaurant in Hat Creek with an appetizing menu.

    The next morning (Thurs Sept 5) we went back into the Park for the Bumpass Hell up and down hike which starts in the forest and ends in the fumeroles, mudpots and hot springs. The first explorer, named Bumpass, fell in and burned his leg here. As we left the car we were entertained by the sight of a marmot sitting on a rock on the embankment. We ate our lunch on a huge log as we started back out of the steaming vents area.

    Our afternoon walk was a short stroll through the Devasted Area, which was covered by lava in the eruptions of 1915 -1921 but has since grown a goodly cover of shrubs and small trees, just as Mt. St. Helen is doing.

    On Friday we hiked the Cinder Cone Trail, starting at Butte Lake Campground north of the Park. The trail followed the Fantastic Lava Beds (dikes of lava higher than our heads) to the perfectly formed Cinder Cone, largest in the US, and the Painted Dunes below. Got a picture of one of the many golden mantel ground squirrels while resting on a log. Went a short way up the Cone but the loose sliding cinders and high altitude (pant pant) deterred us from a summit assault.

    Saturday found us driving north toward Mt Shasta. First stop was a hike down to the foot of Burney Falls, 100 feet high and just as wide, since the water leaks thru the lava and streams down in curtains behind which black swifts nest and fly out for insects.

    Lunch was a picnic at Lower McCloud Falls on the McCloud River and then a two mile walk along the river to the larger Middle Falls. We noticed the huge leaves of the umbrella plant or Indian rhubarb which were beginning to turn scarlet for the fall.

    Sunday was a perfect day to hike on Mt Shasta, clear and cool but not windy. Drove up to the Ski Bowl first, where the road stops, and then back to Bunny Flat, where our trailhead was. Hiked two miles to the old Horse Camp, now a Sierra Club stone hut offering shelter to summiters in Avalanche Gulch. We went from 7800 to 8800 feet under ponderosa pines and Douglas firs. Oregon juncos and a mule deer were sighted. Lunch on a log in Avalanche Gulch with splendid views.

    Monday Alan and I stopped at the Mt Shasta Fish Hatchery, oldest in the US, to see the rainbow, brown and speckled trout. The fingerlings were protected by wires with plastic ribbons hanging from them. A frustrated osprey dove and dove at the tanks but did not dare dip below the wires.

    Then we drove 10 miles up and up a winding canyon road along the South Fork of the Sacramento River above Lake Siskiyou, often in narrow stretches just wide enough for one car. Luckily we met no one and were preceded by a police car, so reached the Gumboot Trailhead on the Pacific Crest Trail without incident. This was about 6000′ and we more or less stayed at that altitude for the two mile walk and back with awesome views on either side, since we were right on the watershed.

    While eating our sardine sandwiches (where else?) on a log we looked up to see two cubs and a mother bear regarding us intently from about 100 feet up the trail. Luckily the wind was coming our way, so they did not smell our sardines and soon bounded off up the mountain.

    Tues Sept 10 we headed for Tulelake and the Lavabeds National Monument. Stopped for lunch at the Lower Klamath (Lake) Wildlife Refuge and saw lots of grebes (western and pied), blacknecked stilts, big white pelicans, ruddy ducks, gadwells, blue teals, glaucous gulls, snipes, coots, cormorants and possibly widgeons.

    On to a car tour of Tule Lake after a stop at the Visitors’ Center. (rufous hummingbirds and house finches at feeders) Sadly, these lakes were much, much larger at the turn of the century but have lost most of their acreage to farmers. Therefore the numbers of birds who visit have greatly diminished. Got a nice picture of a mule deer resting in the shade by an irrigation ditch near the town of Tulelake, where we checked in at the very attractive Ellis motel in an oasis of green grass and big willows.

    Wed. we drove to Lava Beds National Monument. Next to the Visitors’ Center we explored the well lighted Mushpots Cave lava tube with many informative placards about lava icicles and other curiosities.

    Also enjoyed the VC history of the Modoc War in which a small group of warriors with their families took refuge in the lava beds natural fortress which they now call Captain Jack’s Stronghold and for over a year held out against being sent back to the reservation of the Klamath tribe, with whom they did not get along.

    Then took a 45 minute hike up Schonchhin Butte (500 feet above the park road)to the lookout tower for grand views of lava flows and mountains including Shasta. Back to the VC for lunch at a shady table and then to a shorter hike to the Black Crater.

    Next day we drove to Petroglyph Point, a huge cliff formerly a wall of Tule Lake where ancient tribes have left mysterious pictographs. Above circled redtails anc possibly falcons.

    Then to Captain Jack’s Stronghold to walk the Lower Trail before lunch and the longer outer trail in the afternoon that took us all around this natural lavabed fortress which had been used in olden times as a refuge in wars with other Indian tribes before being besieged by the US Army. The Modocs could get water from Tule Lake and drive in wild cows from directions the army could not approach because of the rough lava.

    Friday morning Sept 13 the white fronted geese were flocking in to Tule Lake, the beginning of a larger migration to come. We headed north to Upper Klamath Lake finding on the way a big cluster of white pelicans, white fronted (black) ibis, grebes, egrets and ducks. At Rocky Point we rented a canoe for a two hour paddle on the canoe trail along the marsh, a nice outing but few birds (mallards, an osprey, a pair of plovers and a marsh hawk).

    Then a rewarding drive up through Crater Lake National Park with the late sun sparkling off the 1900 foot lake and its picturesque islands and multicolored lava walls. This is the bowl of a hugh collapsed ancient volcano. Our first stops were along the steep canyon and falls of Annie Creek.

    Saturday back to the Park for the long Rim Drive around the lake. Bev and Alan hiked 700′ down to Cleetwood Cove on the only trail that descends to the lake, a very nice wide gravel path with lots of switchbacks, to the dock where boats go out on
    tours of the lake. Lunch with views of Mt Thielsen (9000′) to the north. Stops to photograph the Phantom Castle, an outcrop of andetite lava, and the phantom ship, ancient cone of a 400,000 yearold volcano. Short hike on the Sun Notch trail to closeup views of the latter. Stop at the North Crater Peak trailhead where a tourist was feeding Canada jays on a table. Then another short hike on the Castle Crest Wildflower Trail near the Visitors Center (slender red trumpets of scarlet gailia or foxfire still in bloom).

    Sunday we first visited a buffalo ranch on Silver Lake Road east of Hy 97(2-3 hundred head?) and then the Collier State Park Logging Museum, the logging town of Chiloquin, and the site of Fort Klamath, which was burned a year ago but still offers the postoffice and some tent exhibits as well as nice shady picnic tables for our lunch.

    Back into the Crater Lake Park for a final hike up The Watchman, a 500′ ascent to a lookout tower, from which smoke from active fires in northern Oregon could be seen. Also a stop at the Sinnott Memorial Overlook named for Congressman Nicholas J. Sinnott of Oregon who introduced much early national park legislation. This featured excellent geological exhibits.

    Monday north to Bend, OR, with a stop at Newberry Volcano National Monument and a hike over the Molten Land Trail there with views pf glacier-topped Mts. Bachelor and Three Sisters. A Clark’s nutcracker, a big pale tan jay-like bird, was eating seeds near the parking lot. Stayed overnight with Mel and Judy Getz and their son Wyatt, old friends of Barbara, who entertained us royally with much hilarity.

    Back to Davis for a week at Barbara’s house and some good tennis games, a hike up Stebbins Cold Canyon, a ride on the Russell Street bikepath on daughter Nancy and husband Dave Gray’s bikes, and a grand family feast with all the Kendrick clan. Also enjoyed the use of computers and reading at the Yolo County Library and the Putah Creek Cleanup Saturday.

    All in all, a wonderful three weeks. Thanks, Barbara, and Friends and Family.
    Bev and Alan

  • Our Aruba Adventure In-the-Sun

    January 8 – January 22, 2001

    Hi Folks, Another travel report. If these bore you, just hit that Delete button.

    Mon. Jan. 8 – We departed Albany early (not so bright), changed planes at Newark, and arrived early in the afternoon at Aruba’s brand new Queen Beatrix Airport having gained one hour to Atlantic time. The 80 degree temps were a bit of a shock after leaving the 20’s in upstate NY, but we gritted our teeth and adjusted.
    Took a taxi to the nearby suburb of Pos Chiquito and were happy to find our studio apartment quite roomy and comfortable, with a lovely courtyard (fairy lighted at night) sporting a goldfish pool, bar, teensy lap pool (about two strokes long) and barbecue. Our kitchenette with breakfast bar was well equipped and we had a kingsize bed, large bathroom, TV and AC, all very reasonable at $50/day. Also two swim/snorkel areas in the neighborhood, a small Chinese grocery on the comer and a laundromat two streets over. If you are interested you will find SeaBreeze Apartments on the Aruba website but plan several months ahead as they only have 7 units and get a lot of European and repeat trade. One block from the oceanside, nice for sunset strolls.

    Tues. Jan. 9 – Walked to ferry dock and took the five minute tiny ferry to DePalm Island, a private beach spa available to anyone for the $7 ferry toll. Alan promptly stretched out in a shaded lounge chair on the deck in front of the pub to do crosswords, but after awhile he was persuaded to climb down the dock steps for some great snorkeling both before and after lunch. This was the only place we found huge royal blue parrotfish, with big white lips, which circled around looking for handouts. Also saw our only green turtle on Aruba here. Also had a nice chat with Maggie and Charlie from NJ and picked up travel tips on Aruba and also on Bavaria: where we hope to go next year. Tomorrow will be a holiday due to the death of a popular minister in the govemment.

    Wed. Jan 10 – a quiet day, everything closed for funeral of “Watty”, minister of public works. Took a walk thru the suburb of Pos Chiquito and an afteroon snorkel at the nearby beach, Mangel Halte, shallow but with some fish out near the reefs.

    Thurs. Jan 11 – Decided to rent a car as the bus service over the island in general is not plentiful. Our hosts have a good deal with Avis and took us into the airport, where we rented a standard shift Suzuki Alto with front wheel drive (important on the dirt roads), very economical on gas. Only spent $25 in our 2 weeks here. Drove up along the waterfront in Oranjestad, capital city and port, stocked up on groceries at the Ling Supermarket. In the PM drove to the east end of the island and swam/snorkeled at Baby Beach, beyond the old (closed in 1986) oil refinery, a very popular lovely curved sandy beach protected by reefs, where the fish are found.

    Fri. Jan. 12 – To Oranjestad (You can tell this is a Dutch protectorate) where the Tourist Booth directed us to the nearby Cyber Cafe so we could check email. Also found the local McD (very important) and bought a net bag for our snorkel gear at Aruba Scuba.
    Then up to the other, western, end of the island to try the snorkeling at Malmok Beach, a stretch of coral ledges favored by the catamaran snorkel cruise boats. Lots of fish and very clear and calm (today). Parked under a divi divi acacia tree and ate our sandwiches, dropping crumbs to the ever alert blue-green lizards. Finished with a drive up to the Califomia Lighthouse for great views of the island.

    Sat. Jan. 13. – Heavy showers (waterfalls) (Aruba only gets 18″ of rain a year and is mostly desert) during early morning hours and lasting into the forenoon (the only day that happened), so slept late and took laundry around the corner to a new automat where the friendly proprietoress offered to do the job and fold the clothes for pickup at the end of the day. So to town for souvenir T shirts, McDs, the Sonesta Casino (where we lost a dollar).

    Sun. Jan. 14 – Drove up into Arikok National Park and took the short hike to the cunucu (old country house, adobe, 3 room) with cactus fence (they cut the organpipe cactus sections and replant them side by side to keep out the wild goats. They also built mortaress rock walls. Along the way we stopped to look at a cave with primitive Arawak Indian drawings in red and white, primarily a ducklike bird which is now the park logo. Drove to the top of Mt Arikok for picnic in the shade of an old radar installation up there (700 plus feet!). Usually we would do this 1.4K hike on foot but here it seems too hot. Enjoyed the orange and black troupial birds on the cactuses with their “yoo hoo” whistle. Lots of tiny doves as well.

    Mon. Jan. 15 – Started the day at the Old Fort Museum in Oranjestad, the oldest building on the island. Inside there is a 19thC house and Indian artifacts. On to the Hotel Sonesta to sign up for a horseback excursion Wed. and a stop at the casino, where we are ahead $6. Picnic on the canal bank near the museum, then a drive up the coast to the Old Mill (a Dutch restaurant) and sanctuary/tower overlooking a couple of ponds. Coots, cormorants and an egret. To Arisha Beach, just below the Calif Lighthouse, for the best snorkeling yet in the late wester light.

    Tues. Jan. 16 – To nearby DePalm island once more for clear waters, lots of fish and coral varieties. Flew our kite, which has now flown over Cozumel, Bomholm (Denmark) and DePalm (Aruba) islands. In the evening we went to the first Bon Bini Festival of this
    year’s Carnival season, concerts of local music with local wares and foods for sale, held every Tuesday. It was at the Fort Museum. Enjoyed a platter of jerk chicken with veggie rice and pasta salad while listening to the barrel organ (tingy lingy box) with rasp player, the steel drum combo, the “Teenagers” (senior citizens doing elegant waltzes, tumbas (one steps) and foxtrots), and the Seabreeze Dancers, beautiful young girls in many orate costumes doing the African drum dance (tambu) and Carival dances as well as the waltz, one step and meringue. The latter was audience participation…just tip your shoulders up and down and keep walking. All very festive.

    Wed. Jan. 17 – To Sonesta by 8:30 for van pickup and drive thru national park to Daimari Ranch (over dreadfully potholed road).
    What a surprise to find big stables and excellent horses out in the middle of nowhere. We climbed one of the park hills and then headed down to the ocean for a swim in the Natural Pool, a small protected cove on this surf battered windward side of the island.
    Lots of trotting and even two beach gallops on the way back. Some yellow and white ground flowers in the desert, possibly due to last week’s rain. Several bands of wild goats. Back in the city we ate our picnic on the waterfront in view of a huge cruise ship, one of several that arrive weekly. Took a walk around the marinas and stopped to photograph the Siberian tiger in a grotto by the harborside Sonesta. On our way home we stopped at the Balashi Brewery beer garden and signed up for a tour of this very new facility on Friday. After supper we joined a group of Swiss guests celebrating a birthday in our courtyard and enjoyed Marachi singers, who included a splendid bilingual version of “Happy Birthday”

    Thurs. Jan 18 – Drove down the east coast in search or snorkle Site Boca Grandl, but could not locate it although we followed signs.
    So back to Baby Beach for a good swim. Saw a large flounder “hiding” on a rock with his topside eyes blinking, big pufferfish, blue cigarsh swimming just under the surface. Watched ters diving. After lunch continued around end of island out of San Nicholas to the Lourdes Grotto, coral caves decorated with madonnas, artificial flowers and candles. Then to the largest coral cave on the island, The Tunnel of Love, which we paid to go through armed with flashlights and an auxiliary battery pack. It was 250 meters down, over and up to the welcome exit opening. We were thankful to find big red arrows pointing the way. Emerged into a sunlit cactus garden. Stopped outside another cave, the Guadirikiri, but just took a walk around the exterior and Alan climbed a small tower. On over the bumpy dirt road to Boca Prins, a surf-filled ravine with sand dunes the locals like to slide down. And then back thru Arikok National Park, town of Santa Cruz, and home.

    Fri. Jan 19 – A morning walk along the shore toward DePalm Island and then a tour of the Balashi Brewery led by the brewmaster.
    Impressed by the state-of-the-art, computerized operation (only 34 employes including sales stafi). Built by a German company (Brewtek?). To town for email and then up the west coast to Malmok again. This time we saw a small squad of squid hanging out and appearing to look us over. Millions of minnows spiral along these ledges and around us. Dinner out at the Royal Cabana seafood buffet… all the shrimp and crablegs I could every want. Also won $10 at the casino.

    Sat Jan 20 – Drove to the Natural Bridge on the windward coast and took a walk over the coral to the next cove. Then to the Bushiribani goldmine ruins for a clamber around and a picture thru one of the roofless windows. And finally to Alto Vista Chapel, the original version of which was built by an early priest on a height overlooking the coast. The road in is marked by the stations of the cross. On up to Arishi Beach for the daily snorkel. The new fish today was large and black with white polkadots and a yellow smear near the tail. Back past the Royal Cabana to lose our $10 edge. At the McDs near the highrise hotels we glimpsed the small green parrots that are said to be here. A sunset walk for photos after supper.

    Sun. Jan. 21 – Put on our hiking boots and took our hiking sticks for a rough hike on the coral ledges around the west end of Aruba beyond the California Lighthouse. Came on a small flock of plovers on the rocks and 3 oyster catchers. During lunch in the car under a divi divi tree a large flock of royal ters kept us company just offshore. Some kind of seahawk flew by… could it be the famous em of crossword puzzles??? A final glorious swim at Malmok ledges and this time we were astounded by numerous large garfish, olive green with blue spots and thready blue tails, that were hanging out amidst the swarms of minnows and looking malevolent with their big dark eyes. Alan saw a new kind of puffer with 4 hors and I saw one with yellow fins. This being Sunday, mostly locals were swimming. There are no cruise ships in port and most of the shops are closed. It is pleasant to breeze thru town where it is usually bumper to bumper traffic. One last stop at the Balashi Beer Gardens and a chat with a Ri couple who have been coming here for 12 years. The bar treated the four of us to a “yard of beer”, a long wooden tray with eight 8 oz glasses! The other lady and I were only good for one each but the guys handled the rest.

    Jan. 22 – All too quickly we are repacking and take the car to Oranjestad for a last walkabout and picnic and then to the airport for our afternoon flight home, arriving back in Albany ahead of schedule at 9:20 PM. We recommend Aruba for everything except sunbathing, as there were complaints of windblown sand driving folks off the beaches. Here’s to More Great Getaways!
    Bev and Alan