Bev Tappan

Travel Logs

  • Bev and Alan Stone Traveled for 20 Years

    Bev recorded many wonderful details about various adventures. See the Travel Logs section in Archives to look for specific locations.

  • Nova Scotia with Eli and Rhoda

    June 5 – 19, 2004

    On Saturday June 5 – we make the long drive from Exeter, NH, to Parrsboro, NS, on the northern end of the Bay of Fundy. The cottage belonging to Judy and Gary Morris is pleasantly secluded not far from the coast and lighthouse and turns out to have a resident pheasant and nearby shore eagle.

    Sunday June 6 – in brilliant sunshine we drive east along the Bay for a hike at the Fox River Viewpoint, which overlooks Cape Split, whose ancient basalt cliffs and seastacks divide Minas Channel from the Bay proper. Great tides rushing in and out continuously scour the red sandstone cliffs on the mainland uncovering ever more gemstones and fossils. On to Cap D’Or for our picnic lunch and hike down to the lighthouse, noting a flock of eider ducks in a cove. Past Advocate Harbor to Chignecto Provincial Park to the Red Rocks Trail and the Christie View Trail.

    Monday June 7 – is cloudy with spit showers but we head west along Fundy Bay to Five Island Provincial Park for a picnic in the car and a cliff top hike with many a climb over trees thrown down by last year’s hurricane. We stop for several views of Cape Blondemin, home of the Indian God Glooscap who, according to one of many legends, threw five rocks at Beaver for damming up the bay and created the Five Islands. Back to Parrsboro to visit the fine geology museum there.

    Tuesday June 8 – a great 19 mile bike ride along the Northumberland Strait, where the roads are relatively level, from east of Pugwash to For River Harbor and back. Supper at Harbor View Restaurant, a shor walk from our cottage.

    Wednesday June 9 – Splendid 4 mile hike to Ward’s Falls along the Diligent River crossing a dozen or more log bridges. Sunny and breezy with no bugs. Trilliam, verbena, shadblow, bunchberries in bloom…all early spring flowers that bloom in April at home. Picnic at Old Diligent Harbor, formerity a lobster boat dock, where the owner of the Harbor View Restaurant drives in to get sea water for his lobster tank. Happy to find free (donations welcome) computer access at Shaw’s Market, typical of little country store offering access to a high speed computer network for the local population.

    Thursday June 10 – East along the Bay to Economy with a visit to a small family museum and former WWII bombing practice survey tower once located at Parrsboro. They practiced bombing small rocky islets and observers and the tower reported results. On a windy walk at Portapique Beach we disturbed an eagle sitting near a nest who flew up and screeched at us, hovering until we finished taking pictures and turned back. Stop at organic meat farm for frozen chicken halves and thick pork chops for grilled dinners at our cottage. Lunch at Economy Point and walk along cove. At Truro we took a look at the Salmon River Tidal Bore channel, unfortunately not at the time of high tidal action. Stop at local fish market for fresh shad and steamers. Shad was delicious when grilled tho it required careful eating to extract the fine bones.

    Friday June 11 – Another fine bike ride along the Northumberland Strait from Tidnish, Baie Verte park, east to Amherst Shores and back. Llamas at a farm in Lorneville came down to look us over. Watched an eagle fishing on the bay. Apple blossoms next to our picnic table. Lobster supper at Harbor View a bit disappointing – overcooked and overpriced.

    Saturday June 12 – we leave Parrsboro and drive via Halifax to Bridgewater near Lunenburg on the Atlantic coast and our next cottage on the shore of Fancy Lake owned by a German couple, Dieter and Gudula Mittner. Early mornings and late evening sunshine on the lake prove to be delightful, and there is a visiting loon and muskrat.

    Sunday June 13 – A shore bike from the Lunenburg Tourist Center park to the fishing village on the peninsula of Blue Rocks, some 14 miles. Back for lunch at park.

    Monday June 14 – another fine bike along the east side of the La Have River from Bridgewater to the ferry crossing and back. A head wind off the Atlantic slowed us down on the way out but hurried us back.
    Picturesque Middle La Have Church on riverbend.

    Tuesday June 15 – cloudy and showery so chose to visit Halifax Waterfront after getting an oil change at WalMart’s. Alan thrilled to find the Corvette Sackville on which his old Canadian canoe trip guide Ed O’Connor crewed in WWII and wrote a book. We toured the small quarters of this courageous little ship hat shepherded convoys across the Atlantic. Had a fine lunch at the Lower Deck Pub, rode the ferry to Dartmouth and back and took a look at the Bluenose II, a replica of the undefeated racing original.

    Wednesday June 16 – to Kjemkujik National Park Seaside Adjunct on the south Atlantic coast where we took an ambitious 5+ mile loop hike around Cap Jolie. Wild blue flag (iris), black chokeberry, pitcher plants, pink sheep laurel in blossom.

    Thursday June 17 – A stop at Port Mouton lobsterboat marina and thence a bike out to Indian Point from Port Mahone and back (12 miles) and picnic at the tourist center. Scenic drive out Second Peninsula with a stop at Bachman’s Beach for a shore walk and view of osprey nests. Back up the La Have River.

    Friday June 18 – Down the coast to Port Medway Harbor and lighthouse and then to Medway Head Lighthouse where we walked a gravel road out to Long Cove and back. Found another tiny general store with free coffee and internet! Picnic at Petit Harbour. Rissen’s Beach shore walk and boardwalk with yellow crowsfoot in bloom, local kids swimming the frigid Petite Riviere and a pair of ospreys fishing. On to La Have River and Fort Point, first French Acadian fort (1632) and capital, now the site of a fine little Acadian history museum and a lighthouse.

    Saturday June 19 the long trip back to Exeter via the Digby/St. John ferry.

  • PEI Experiences

    June 15 – 20, 2003

    On Sunday, June 15, it was misty with spit showers, so we did a car tour to the Eastern Point Light, stopping on the way at Prim Point Lighthouse and informative visitors’ centers. Also Rhoda spotted a sweater sale sign on a house and we bought nice handmade sweaters at $50-$55 Canadian. Returned to Rustico on North Shore for a traditional lobster supper at the New Glasgow Restaurant, with all you could eat mussels, chowder, etc. Put away two big buckets of mussels.

    Monday, June 16, bright and breezy, perfect for biking. Drove to Mt. Stewart on the Confederation Rail Trail and shuttled a car to St. Peter’s Bay, then did the 17.2 mile bikeride passing through lovely wildflowers and along riversides and the shores of the big bay.

    Tuesday, June 17 again sunny for our transfer to Alberton on the northwest corner of PEl. Had lunch in our lovely unit with kitchenette and parlor at Briarwood Lodge on Cuscumpec Bay of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Then took a 2 hr bike ride through the town of Alberton and out to the Kildare River bridge on Rt 12. At Happy Hour our host, Gary Inwood, arrived with several huge, freshly steamed snow crabs which we devoured as fast as we could crack the legs and suck out the meat. They are almost as big as Alaskan Crabs and very delicate in flavor.

    Wed. sunny again so drove to North Cape Lighthouse with a stop at the Tignish Cultural Center (good historical exhibit) for a picnic on the red rocks at tip of island. Then biked 10 or so miles along the coast to Anglo Tignish and back. Picture of a nice little workhorse such as families use to pull rakes through the surf to gather Irish Moss after a storm, which is then dried and sold for the carageenan (used in most dairy and pudding products).

    On return to Lighthouse found the famous ancient bedrock reef exposed (low tide) so that we could waik out on it and see the “Meeting of the Waters” between the Northumberland Strait and the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

    On the way home we stopped at the Kildare River Fisheries and bought 22 large oysters off a truck which our host’s sisterinlaw opened for us to make fried oysters, which we ate for supper along with Eli’s sauteed scallops. Great poker game in evening.

    Thursday misty with spit showers. Drove to West Point Light with a stop at the extensive Potato Museum at O’Leary (big exhibit originally set up in Ottawa). Picnic in a shelter at Cedar Dunes Provincial Park and brief shore walk until rains drove us into the gift shop, where I got a couple of Tshirts and Alan got a little bear in a slicker with crabs. On to Minnemegash (sp?) Irish Moss Interpretative Center and a delicious sample of Irish Moss gelatin pie with whipped cream.

    Friday we made a 7:30 AM start for the long drive, an hour to the Confederation Bridge (in fog), 4 hours in sunshine across New Brunswick along the lovely St. John River Valley with picnic at King’s Landing Visitor Center park to Houlton, ME, where we started south on 195. Back in RiverWoods about 6:30 PM. A grand trip.

  • Good Times in Texas

    March 28 – April 9, 2003

    Well we had a fine two weeks with cool but pleasant weather. Started by revisiting the RiverWalk in San Antonio and were impressed by the new convention center down beyond the Marriot Hotel. Drove leisurely to Lawn with a lunch stop and walk in Fredericksburg.

    One of the first things we did was take a long walk on the Mayfield ranch out to the J Tank and back. Tanks are filled to overflowing and wheat and grass are thriving. Saturday night we met sisterinlaw Phyllis and two granddaughters and her sister for supper and then went to the Abilene roping arena to watch brotherinlaw Jim and son Billy practice roping. Pretty dusty work.

    Sunday we took a picnic and a long walk on the Concho River in San Angelo where we fed what looked like muskrats but turned out to be baby nutria. (Over in Corpus we saw the mother nutria and she is gigantic, bigger than a beaver).

    Monday we took Joseph to Paintrock to see the Indian pictographs there. We got a lesson in archeology and pictograph techniques and interpretations from the ranch owner. Then a fine dinner at a mesquite grill restaurant with Jim and Phyllis.

    Tuesday Jim took us to see a drilling rig his company had recently set up in the town of Novicio. Quite an exciting affair and dangerous for the workers – easy to get injured in the fast moving machinery and ropes. Also saw an interesting museum of old oil field and farm equipment.

    Mike got back late Tuesday night and Wednesday we went with him to collect two of their four horses from a far pasture. That evening he fired up the big mesquite cooker and there was a big friends and family barbecue and potluck. As we were leaving Thursday morning Mike showed us the little herd of Long Horns Jim has bought for raising roping calves.

    On to Corpus Christi arriving just before Amy at about 5 o’clock. Sure enjoyed the wild flowers along the way – orange-red paintbrush, bluebonnets, pink poppies, yellow daisies, etc. Amy cooked us some good meals, as did Ginny. We went to see Swan Lake at the Corpus Christi Ballet, a lovely performance with different dancers as Odile and Odette. Had clams (in the shell with linguine and eggless caramel custard at the Macaroni Grill.

    Of course one of our first outings was to the Hans Suter Birding Center where the spoonbills and white pelicans were napping in large flocks quite close to shore. Sunday we all went to the Texas Heritage Days fair at Refugio for a barbecue lunch and a talk by the western writer Elmer Kelton followed by a demonstration of horse taming by a horse whisperer. After an hour of hustling the young horse around the ring and introducing the gear to it he was able to mount and sit in the saddle. The miniature donkeys were cute too.

    Spent Monday on Mustang Island, admiring the heavy surf on a shore walk at the State Park, then to the Port Aransas birding center, the ferry docks (took a ride, Alan saw a dolphin), picnicked in the park and walked the canal shore, then another long walk on the jetty to see big ships come into the outer harbor entrance. Plenty of pelicans and palmated plovers.

    Monday evening a went to a church coffeehouse to hear Cindy Mangsen and Steve Gillette, VT folk singers some of you may know. Have been playing their CDs.

    Took in a Tuesday matinee big screen showing of Chicago and then to Snoopy’s for a waterfront sunset and their Cajun shrimp on rice. Headed for San Anton Wednesday with a picnic stop and long walk at Choke Canyon State Park. We have never seen the water so high, flooding out many acacia trees, almost to the top of the dam. Birds galore – mockingbirds, killdeer. swallows, a roadrunner, a brown cardinal, egrets, coots, small blue herons and more. Sorry to have to leave.

  • Val David Ski Week

    January 12 – 18, 2023

    Rhoda and Eli Baker arrived at Alan’s Friday noon, Jan 10, from a week at Killington. Friday night Elizabeth and Jess came for supper. Saturday we went up to Glens Falls and had lunch at the Olive Garden. Saturday night was the big poker game with Eli and Rhoda, Ron, Jay, Bob and Phyllis. Uncle Jay was the big donator.

    Sunday we headed north for Val David and got there in midafternoon to find E and R already checked in at the Chalet Beaumont hostel. Had our usual double room with bath and great view of the hills.

    Monday was cloudy with light snow. Nonetheless we went to Gray Rocks for downhill skiing. Lots of soft new snow and poor visibility made the day a challenge. So was the drive home, on which we passed several cars off the road. Glad to have Eli’s VW all wheel drive.

    Tuesday clear and cold (-4). Alan and I drove to Mt. Tremblent National Park to the XC Center at Lake Monroe and skied 2 hours in snowy tracks. Followed wolf and deer tracks. E and R skied every day at Grey Rocks. Dinner at Le Vieux Foyer …all you can eat mussels with great sauce choices.

    Wednesday again clear and cold. We skied Far Hills Resort in nearby Val Morin – a large well groomed area where AMC groups often go and one was there. Skied 2 hours on more ups and downs than Mt.
    Tremblent.

    Thursday skied trails at Chalet Beaumont – Le Balade – 2½ times around in the hilly woods above the chalet. Afternoon went down to Val David town trails across the main road – Les Meandres and Belle
    Etoile. Dramatic Cliffside views.

    Friday a difficult drive to Montreal because of sun in our eyes and constantly dirtied windshield. Found the Espresso store where E and R took their espresso machine to be repaired (Faena) and then on to the Montreal Youth Hostel. Had a fine dinner at nearby Vietnamese restaurant with soup, salad, entrée and desert for about $10 US each.

    Saturday we went to Chinatown where the Bakers found a great Dim Sum restaurant – our first experience with all the little courses including snails, crispy shrimp, broccoli rabi and many stuffed noodles ending with soup, all very reasonable. Ran into a big Peace March on our way up St. Catherine Street. Took home deli salad and rolls for supper.

    Sunday the Bakers went back to St. Jovite for their week of skiing at Mt. Tremblant with the GST Ski Club and we went cast and then south to Carol and Len’s. Monday was a good ski day at the Bartlett Bear Notch Center, along the Saco and up in the hills. Tuesday and Wednesday were so windy we did not venture out except to take my friend Loraine out to lunch. Thursday was calm so we snowshoed up behind the old Madison house on our way back to Exeter – dismayed to find snowmobiles have made a highway of our old ski trail there – but went off on the Bliss’s boundary trails to get into the untrammeled woods.

  • Cascades’ Trip

    September 3 – 24, 2002

    If you want to hear more about this, read on. Otherwise delete.

    We flew out to Sacramento on Tuesday Sept 3 and were met at the airport by Alan’s sister Barbara, who drove us to her house in Davis, where the State Agricultural University is located.

    The next day, after admiring her garden full of roses, we left by car for Mt. Lassen, first of the Cascade volcanic peaks in our itinerary. After a coffee break at the Sacramento Wildlife Refuge to see the displays of all the birds that would be migrating into there in November, we reached the south entrance fo Lassen Volcano National Park in midafternoon.

    The late sun burnished the bare peaks of vari-colored volcanic mineral as we drove steadily upward from 1000 to 8000 foot altitude, leaving the lodgepole for the ponderosa pines. A herd of mule deer in the King’s Creek mountain meadow ambled into the trees.

    Canyons, steep dropoffs and other breathtaking vistas entertained us until we left the park on the north side and made our way to our rather aged little cabin in Rim Rock Ranch, Hat Creek, CA. Luckily we found a brand new restaurant in Hat Creek with an appetizing menu.

    The next morning (Thurs Sept 5) we went back into the Park for the Bumpass Hell up and down hike which starts in the forest and ends in the fumeroles, mudpots and hot springs. The first explorer, named Bumpass, fell in and burned his leg here. As we left the car we were entertained by the sight of a marmot sitting on a rock on the embankment. We ate our lunch on a huge log as we started back out of the steaming vents area.

    Our afternoon walk was a short stroll through the Devasted Area, which was covered by lava in the eruptions of 1915 -1921 but has since grown a goodly cover of shrubs and small trees, just as Mt. St. Helen is doing.

    On Friday we hiked the Cinder Cone Trail, starting at Butte Lake Campground north of the Park. The trail followed the Fantastic Lava Beds (dikes of lava higher than our heads) to the perfectly formed Cinder Cone, largest in the US, and the Painted Dunes below. Got a picture of one of the many golden mantel ground squirrels while resting on a log. Went a short way up the Cone but the loose sliding cinders and high altitude (pant pant) deterred us from a summit assault.

    Saturday found us driving north toward Mt Shasta. First stop was a hike down to the foot of Burney Falls, 100 feet high and just as wide, since the water leaks thru the lava and streams down in curtains behind which black swifts nest and fly out for insects.

    Lunch was a picnic at Lower McCloud Falls on the McCloud River and then a two mile walk along the river to the larger Middle Falls. We noticed the huge leaves of the umbrella plant or Indian rhubarb which were beginning to turn scarlet for the fall.

    Sunday was a perfect day to hike on Mt Shasta, clear and cool but not windy. Drove up to the Ski Bowl first, where the road stops, and then back to Bunny Flat, where our trailhead was. Hiked two miles to the old Horse Camp, now a Sierra Club stone hut offering shelter to summiters in Avalanche Gulch. We went from 7800 to 8800 feet under ponderosa pines and Douglas firs. Oregon juncos and a mule deer were sighted. Lunch on a log in Avalanche Gulch with splendid views.

    Monday Alan and I stopped at the Mt Shasta Fish Hatchery, oldest in the US, to see the rainbow, brown and speckled trout. The fingerlings were protected by wires with plastic ribbons hanging from them. A frustrated osprey dove and dove at the tanks but did not dare dip below the wires.

    Then we drove 10 miles up and up a winding canyon road along the South Fork of the Sacramento River above Lake Siskiyou, often in narrow stretches just wide enough for one car. Luckily we met no one and were preceded by a police car, so reached the Gumboot Trailhead on the Pacific Crest Trail without incident. This was about 6000′ and we more or less stayed at that altitude for the two mile walk and back with awesome views on either side, since we were right on the watershed.

    While eating our sardine sandwiches (where else?) on a log we looked up to see two cubs and a mother bear regarding us intently from about 100 feet up the trail. Luckily the wind was coming our way, so they did not smell our sardines and soon bounded off up the mountain.

    Tues Sept 10 we headed for Tulelake and the Lavabeds National Monument. Stopped for lunch at the Lower Klamath (Lake) Wildlife Refuge and saw lots of grebes (western and pied), blacknecked stilts, big white pelicans, ruddy ducks, gadwells, blue teals, glaucous gulls, snipes, coots, cormorants and possibly widgeons.

    On to a car tour of Tule Lake after a stop at the Visitors’ Center. (rufous hummingbirds and house finches at feeders) Sadly, these lakes were much, much larger at the turn of the century but have lost most of their acreage to farmers. Therefore the numbers of birds who visit have greatly diminished. Got a nice picture of a mule deer resting in the shade by an irrigation ditch near the town of Tulelake, where we checked in at the very attractive Ellis motel in an oasis of green grass and big willows.

    Wed. we drove to Lava Beds National Monument. Next to the Visitors’ Center we explored the well lighted Mushpots Cave lava tube with many informative placards about lava icicles and other curiosities.

    Also enjoyed the VC history of the Modoc War in which a small group of warriors with their families took refuge in the lava beds natural fortress which they now call Captain Jack’s Stronghold and for over a year held out against being sent back to the reservation of the Klamath tribe, with whom they did not get along.

    Then took a 45 minute hike up Schonchhin Butte (500 feet above the park road)to the lookout tower for grand views of lava flows and mountains including Shasta. Back to the VC for lunch at a shady table and then to a shorter hike to the Black Crater.

    Next day we drove to Petroglyph Point, a huge cliff formerly a wall of Tule Lake where ancient tribes have left mysterious pictographs. Above circled redtails anc possibly falcons.

    Then to Captain Jack’s Stronghold to walk the Lower Trail before lunch and the longer outer trail in the afternoon that took us all around this natural lavabed fortress which had been used in olden times as a refuge in wars with other Indian tribes before being besieged by the US Army. The Modocs could get water from Tule Lake and drive in wild cows from directions the army could not approach because of the rough lava.

    Friday morning Sept 13 the white fronted geese were flocking in to Tule Lake, the beginning of a larger migration to come. We headed north to Upper Klamath Lake finding on the way a big cluster of white pelicans, white fronted (black) ibis, grebes, egrets and ducks. At Rocky Point we rented a canoe for a two hour paddle on the canoe trail along the marsh, a nice outing but few birds (mallards, an osprey, a pair of plovers and a marsh hawk).

    Then a rewarding drive up through Crater Lake National Park with the late sun sparkling off the 1900 foot lake and its picturesque islands and multicolored lava walls. This is the bowl of a hugh collapsed ancient volcano. Our first stops were along the steep canyon and falls of Annie Creek.

    Saturday back to the Park for the long Rim Drive around the lake. Bev and Alan hiked 700′ down to Cleetwood Cove on the only trail that descends to the lake, a very nice wide gravel path with lots of switchbacks, to the dock where boats go out on
    tours of the lake. Lunch with views of Mt Thielsen (9000′) to the north. Stops to photograph the Phantom Castle, an outcrop of andetite lava, and the phantom ship, ancient cone of a 400,000 yearold volcano. Short hike on the Sun Notch trail to closeup views of the latter. Stop at the North Crater Peak trailhead where a tourist was feeding Canada jays on a table. Then another short hike on the Castle Crest Wildflower Trail near the Visitors Center (slender red trumpets of scarlet gailia or foxfire still in bloom).

    Sunday we first visited a buffalo ranch on Silver Lake Road east of Hy 97(2-3 hundred head?) and then the Collier State Park Logging Museum, the logging town of Chiloquin, and the site of Fort Klamath, which was burned a year ago but still offers the postoffice and some tent exhibits as well as nice shady picnic tables for our lunch.

    Back into the Crater Lake Park for a final hike up The Watchman, a 500′ ascent to a lookout tower, from which smoke from active fires in northern Oregon could be seen. Also a stop at the Sinnott Memorial Overlook named for Congressman Nicholas J. Sinnott of Oregon who introduced much early national park legislation. This featured excellent geological exhibits.

    Monday north to Bend, OR, with a stop at Newberry Volcano National Monument and a hike over the Molten Land Trail there with views pf glacier-topped Mts. Bachelor and Three Sisters. A Clark’s nutcracker, a big pale tan jay-like bird, was eating seeds near the parking lot. Stayed overnight with Mel and Judy Getz and their son Wyatt, old friends of Barbara, who entertained us royally with much hilarity.

    Back to Davis for a week at Barbara’s house and some good tennis games, a hike up Stebbins Cold Canyon, a ride on the Russell Street bikepath on daughter Nancy and husband Dave Gray’s bikes, and a grand family feast with all the Kendrick clan. Also enjoyed the use of computers and reading at the Yolo County Library and the Putah Creek Cleanup Saturday.

    All in all, a wonderful three weeks. Thanks, Barbara, and Friends and Family.
    Bev and Alan

  • Our Aruba Adventure In-the-Sun

    January 8 – January 22, 2001

    Hi Folks, Another travel report. If these bore you, just hit that Delete button.

    Mon. Jan. 8 – We departed Albany early (not so bright), changed planes at Newark, and arrived early in the afternoon at Aruba’s brand new Queen Beatrix Airport having gained one hour to Atlantic time. The 80 degree temps were a bit of a shock after leaving the 20’s in upstate NY, but we gritted our teeth and adjusted.
    Took a taxi to the nearby suburb of Pos Chiquito and were happy to find our studio apartment quite roomy and comfortable, with a lovely courtyard (fairy lighted at night) sporting a goldfish pool, bar, teensy lap pool (about two strokes long) and barbecue. Our kitchenette with breakfast bar was well equipped and we had a kingsize bed, large bathroom, TV and AC, all very reasonable at $50/day. Also two swim/snorkel areas in the neighborhood, a small Chinese grocery on the comer and a laundromat two streets over. If you are interested you will find SeaBreeze Apartments on the Aruba website but plan several months ahead as they only have 7 units and get a lot of European and repeat trade. One block from the oceanside, nice for sunset strolls.

    Tues. Jan. 9 – Walked to ferry dock and took the five minute tiny ferry to DePalm Island, a private beach spa available to anyone for the $7 ferry toll. Alan promptly stretched out in a shaded lounge chair on the deck in front of the pub to do crosswords, but after awhile he was persuaded to climb down the dock steps for some great snorkeling both before and after lunch. This was the only place we found huge royal blue parrotfish, with big white lips, which circled around looking for handouts. Also saw our only green turtle on Aruba here. Also had a nice chat with Maggie and Charlie from NJ and picked up travel tips on Aruba and also on Bavaria: where we hope to go next year. Tomorrow will be a holiday due to the death of a popular minister in the govemment.

    Wed. Jan 10 – a quiet day, everything closed for funeral of “Watty”, minister of public works. Took a walk thru the suburb of Pos Chiquito and an afteroon snorkel at the nearby beach, Mangel Halte, shallow but with some fish out near the reefs.

    Thurs. Jan 11 – Decided to rent a car as the bus service over the island in general is not plentiful. Our hosts have a good deal with Avis and took us into the airport, where we rented a standard shift Suzuki Alto with front wheel drive (important on the dirt roads), very economical on gas. Only spent $25 in our 2 weeks here. Drove up along the waterfront in Oranjestad, capital city and port, stocked up on groceries at the Ling Supermarket. In the PM drove to the east end of the island and swam/snorkeled at Baby Beach, beyond the old (closed in 1986) oil refinery, a very popular lovely curved sandy beach protected by reefs, where the fish are found.

    Fri. Jan. 12 – To Oranjestad (You can tell this is a Dutch protectorate) where the Tourist Booth directed us to the nearby Cyber Cafe so we could check email. Also found the local McD (very important) and bought a net bag for our snorkel gear at Aruba Scuba.
    Then up to the other, western, end of the island to try the snorkeling at Malmok Beach, a stretch of coral ledges favored by the catamaran snorkel cruise boats. Lots of fish and very clear and calm (today). Parked under a divi divi acacia tree and ate our sandwiches, dropping crumbs to the ever alert blue-green lizards. Finished with a drive up to the Califomia Lighthouse for great views of the island.

    Sat. Jan. 13. – Heavy showers (waterfalls) (Aruba only gets 18″ of rain a year and is mostly desert) during early morning hours and lasting into the forenoon (the only day that happened), so slept late and took laundry around the corner to a new automat where the friendly proprietoress offered to do the job and fold the clothes for pickup at the end of the day. So to town for souvenir T shirts, McDs, the Sonesta Casino (where we lost a dollar).

    Sun. Jan. 14 – Drove up into Arikok National Park and took the short hike to the cunucu (old country house, adobe, 3 room) with cactus fence (they cut the organpipe cactus sections and replant them side by side to keep out the wild goats. They also built mortaress rock walls. Along the way we stopped to look at a cave with primitive Arawak Indian drawings in red and white, primarily a ducklike bird which is now the park logo. Drove to the top of Mt Arikok for picnic in the shade of an old radar installation up there (700 plus feet!). Usually we would do this 1.4K hike on foot but here it seems too hot. Enjoyed the orange and black troupial birds on the cactuses with their “yoo hoo” whistle. Lots of tiny doves as well.

    Mon. Jan. 15 – Started the day at the Old Fort Museum in Oranjestad, the oldest building on the island. Inside there is a 19thC house and Indian artifacts. On to the Hotel Sonesta to sign up for a horseback excursion Wed. and a stop at the casino, where we are ahead $6. Picnic on the canal bank near the museum, then a drive up the coast to the Old Mill (a Dutch restaurant) and sanctuary/tower overlooking a couple of ponds. Coots, cormorants and an egret. To Arisha Beach, just below the Calif Lighthouse, for the best snorkeling yet in the late wester light.

    Tues. Jan. 16 – To nearby DePalm island once more for clear waters, lots of fish and coral varieties. Flew our kite, which has now flown over Cozumel, Bomholm (Denmark) and DePalm (Aruba) islands. In the evening we went to the first Bon Bini Festival of this
    year’s Carnival season, concerts of local music with local wares and foods for sale, held every Tuesday. It was at the Fort Museum. Enjoyed a platter of jerk chicken with veggie rice and pasta salad while listening to the barrel organ (tingy lingy box) with rasp player, the steel drum combo, the “Teenagers” (senior citizens doing elegant waltzes, tumbas (one steps) and foxtrots), and the Seabreeze Dancers, beautiful young girls in many orate costumes doing the African drum dance (tambu) and Carival dances as well as the waltz, one step and meringue. The latter was audience participation…just tip your shoulders up and down and keep walking. All very festive.

    Wed. Jan. 17 – To Sonesta by 8:30 for van pickup and drive thru national park to Daimari Ranch (over dreadfully potholed road).
    What a surprise to find big stables and excellent horses out in the middle of nowhere. We climbed one of the park hills and then headed down to the ocean for a swim in the Natural Pool, a small protected cove on this surf battered windward side of the island.
    Lots of trotting and even two beach gallops on the way back. Some yellow and white ground flowers in the desert, possibly due to last week’s rain. Several bands of wild goats. Back in the city we ate our picnic on the waterfront in view of a huge cruise ship, one of several that arrive weekly. Took a walk around the marinas and stopped to photograph the Siberian tiger in a grotto by the harborside Sonesta. On our way home we stopped at the Balashi Brewery beer garden and signed up for a tour of this very new facility on Friday. After supper we joined a group of Swiss guests celebrating a birthday in our courtyard and enjoyed Marachi singers, who included a splendid bilingual version of “Happy Birthday”

    Thurs. Jan 18 – Drove down the east coast in search or snorkle Site Boca Grandl, but could not locate it although we followed signs.
    So back to Baby Beach for a good swim. Saw a large flounder “hiding” on a rock with his topside eyes blinking, big pufferfish, blue cigarsh swimming just under the surface. Watched ters diving. After lunch continued around end of island out of San Nicholas to the Lourdes Grotto, coral caves decorated with madonnas, artificial flowers and candles. Then to the largest coral cave on the island, The Tunnel of Love, which we paid to go through armed with flashlights and an auxiliary battery pack. It was 250 meters down, over and up to the welcome exit opening. We were thankful to find big red arrows pointing the way. Emerged into a sunlit cactus garden. Stopped outside another cave, the Guadirikiri, but just took a walk around the exterior and Alan climbed a small tower. On over the bumpy dirt road to Boca Prins, a surf-filled ravine with sand dunes the locals like to slide down. And then back thru Arikok National Park, town of Santa Cruz, and home.

    Fri. Jan 19 – A morning walk along the shore toward DePalm Island and then a tour of the Balashi Brewery led by the brewmaster.
    Impressed by the state-of-the-art, computerized operation (only 34 employes including sales stafi). Built by a German company (Brewtek?). To town for email and then up the west coast to Malmok again. This time we saw a small squad of squid hanging out and appearing to look us over. Millions of minnows spiral along these ledges and around us. Dinner out at the Royal Cabana seafood buffet… all the shrimp and crablegs I could every want. Also won $10 at the casino.

    Sat Jan 20 – Drove to the Natural Bridge on the windward coast and took a walk over the coral to the next cove. Then to the Bushiribani goldmine ruins for a clamber around and a picture thru one of the roofless windows. And finally to Alto Vista Chapel, the original version of which was built by an early priest on a height overlooking the coast. The road in is marked by the stations of the cross. On up to Arishi Beach for the daily snorkel. The new fish today was large and black with white polkadots and a yellow smear near the tail. Back past the Royal Cabana to lose our $10 edge. At the McDs near the highrise hotels we glimpsed the small green parrots that are said to be here. A sunset walk for photos after supper.

    Sun. Jan. 21 – Put on our hiking boots and took our hiking sticks for a rough hike on the coral ledges around the west end of Aruba beyond the California Lighthouse. Came on a small flock of plovers on the rocks and 3 oyster catchers. During lunch in the car under a divi divi tree a large flock of royal ters kept us company just offshore. Some kind of seahawk flew by… could it be the famous em of crossword puzzles??? A final glorious swim at Malmok ledges and this time we were astounded by numerous large garfish, olive green with blue spots and thready blue tails, that were hanging out amidst the swarms of minnows and looking malevolent with their big dark eyes. Alan saw a new kind of puffer with 4 hors and I saw one with yellow fins. This being Sunday, mostly locals were swimming. There are no cruise ships in port and most of the shops are closed. It is pleasant to breeze thru town where it is usually bumper to bumper traffic. One last stop at the Balashi Beer Gardens and a chat with a Ri couple who have been coming here for 12 years. The bar treated the four of us to a “yard of beer”, a long wooden tray with eight 8 oz glasses! The other lady and I were only good for one each but the guys handled the rest.

    Jan. 22 – All too quickly we are repacking and take the car to Oranjestad for a last walkabout and picnic and then to the airport for our afternoon flight home, arriving back in Albany ahead of schedule at 9:20 PM. We recommend Aruba for everything except sunbathing, as there were complaints of windblown sand driving folks off the beaches. Here’s to More Great Getaways!
    Bev and Alan