We flew to Seattle Tuesday April 18 and drove out onto the peninsula across the Hood Canal bridge and up to Port Townsend on the northeast shore where we checked into our Olympic Hostel on the grounds of Fort Worden State Park overlooking the waters of Puget Sound and San Juan de Fuca Straits.
Wed. Apr 19 – hiked the fort ridge and lighthouse shore. The Port Townsend Light sits at the meeting of the waters of Puget Sound and San Juan Straits.
Thurs Apr 20 – To Old Fort Townsend State Park (a 19th c fort) to walk nature and historic trails among giant Douglas firs, Western cedars and sword ferns. Carpets of daisy fleabane and big red blossoms on rhododendron bushes. Pileated woodpeckers hammering all around. On to Fort Flagler State Park on Marrowstone Island opposite Fort Townsend. Large flock of black brants on shore. Navy supply ship leaving the base on Indian Island. View of wood chip barge and paper mill. Did the Wilderness Trail and other old roads. Lots of glaucous winged gulls.
Fri Apr 21 – To Quilcene Falls View Campground in the National Forest near Mt. Walker (road to top blocked by snow) for hike to view of upper falls and canyon trail to Quilcene River and back. Salmon berries, yellow (pioneer) violets, big white trilliums, herb Robert, hedge nettle, colorful red cedar log, club moss hanging from trees. Then to Rainbow Campground canyon trail, alert to COUGAR warnings.
Sat Apr 22 – Took the Puget Sound Express high speed boat to the San Juans in search of one of the three pods of orca whales, which we did not catch up with but enjoyed views of huge elephant seal and eagle on lighthouse near big nest, numerous harbor seals, Stellar sea lions and porpoises. Tasty oyster burgers with blue cheese and brews at the Front Street Alehouse at Friday Harbor on San Juan Island.
Sun Apr 23 – To Chetzemoka (friendly Indian chief) town park for walk among flowering cherry and apple trees, rhodies and other blossoms, then a shore walk past another big flock of black brants to the Otter Crossing restaurant for a cup of coffee with muffin al fresco. Back to the park for a picnic. Alan tossed horseshoes with Dan from the Water Street Brewery. In the afternoon a fine performance of the Three Penny Opera by the Key City Players.
Mon Apr 24- Ferry to Whidby Island and Fort Casey State Park where black tail deer were grazing near a field of bluebells. On the cliff top hike to the lighthouse a good hawk (Northern harrier?) sighting and talk with lighthouse curator.
Tues Apr 25 – Leaving Port Townsend for the west coast. Stop for a 3 mile walk onto 5 mile Dungenness Spit, the longest spit in the US and growing. Dabbling ducks (scoters?) off shore and 3 sizes of shore waders. Lunch stop near madrone tree at East Beach on Crescent Lake, miles long glacial lake. On to Fort Timber Museum and Univ of Wash Forestry Center trails. Check in at Rain Forest Home Hostel with host Jim Conomos.
Wed Apr 26 – On edge of Olympic National Park a drive to “world’s largest” red cedar (178 feet tall and 19.4 foot diameter). Walk on old growth cedar trail among awesome giant trees. On drive to Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center a large herd of elk cows near a camp store. Also a black angus steer on the road. Walked the Sitka Spruce trail (1½ miles) and Mossy Trail (1¼ miles) Large spruce and western hemlocks with lemon ferns on trees and Oregon oxalis in flower on ground. On way back to hostel a stop at Rialto Beach and clamber among giant drift logs at low tide out to gigantic sea stacks. Evening visit to potluck supper, drumming, chanting and blessing with Quileute Indian tribe in town of LaPush, guests of hostel host Jim Conomos, an honorary tribal member.Ceremonial dances with wolf (tribal ancestor) masks and eagle hats with tribal leader chanting and shaking rattles.
Thurs Apr 27 – Drive down southwest coast to beach. Spruce Burl trail (huge tree tumors caused by a salt-borne virus), Bead ruby (false lily of the valley) in bloom. Beach walk among flocks of plovers and sanderlings. Talk with a fellow from New Jersey. Back to Beach 2. Impressed by tsunamis warning sign at trailhead. Beach 4 trail to beach past rocks riddled by boring piddock clams. Ruby Beach and Abbey Island and wind/water-eroded sea stacks, Desperation Island with lighthouse offshore.
Fri. Apr 28 – Backcountry road into Park to Hoh River South Fork trail to Flats (3 mile RT). Trailhead just beyond Cottonwood Campground. Most remote wilderness hike of our trip. Lunch on log near Flats, a popular elk drinking area judging by elk droppings. On drive out a grouse and young black bear scurry across the road. Side trip up a logging road to a clear cut area and view of Olympic peaks.
Sat Apr 29 – Rainy morning at hostel. Did laundry. Afternoon walk on Ruby Beach admiring wild surf and on the long stretch of smooth sand at Kalaloch Lodge beach.
Sun Apr 30 – Drive back to Port Angeles. Hike (1.6 miles) to cascades at Sol Duc Falls National Park campground and lunch at picnic table. Another 2 mile walk at Marymere Falls near the east end of Crescent Lake. Climb up trail to upper falls. On to Thortown Home Hostel (hosts Carl and Michelle and little girl Pluma). Walk after supper along paved shore bike trail to ferry dock and back.
Mon May 1 – Heart of the Forest Olympic National Park 4 mile trail. Met park loggers clearing trail from recent 50 mph windstorm, so clambered over some huge windfalls. Stop at Visitor Center (Shining Oregon grape bushes with yellow blossoms and holly-like leaves and Pacific dogwood in bloom) and walked nature trail there.
Tues May 2 – Walked to ferry dock and took Coho Ferry to Victoria (1 ½ hours). Explored B.C. Museum on harbor (top floor life size dioramas of Indian life and second floor nature/geology displays) and ate lunch in cafeteria. Took harbor shuttle tiny ferry tour including expensive home boats and harbor side condo developments. Saw the martin houses on 9 foot poles above the tideline and heard the story of the orca who visited the harbor. Had an ice cream on the harbor side and walked back to the ferry dock. Supper at the Crab House (shrimp salad and crab cakes) near the Port Angeles ferry dock.
Wed May 3 – Dungenness Audubon Bird Center at Sequim to join a ranger-led bird walk along the Olympic bike path. Rufous hummers, merlin, cowbirds, evening grosbeaks, goldfinches, red tails, stellar jays, violet-green swallows, song sparrows, Pacific towhees, red breasted nuthatches, white throats and many more. From bridge over the Dungenness River we watched a pair of mergansers riding the rapids. Some saw water ousels.
Thurs May 4 – Drove up to Hurricane Ridge (over 5000 feet elevation) Olympic National Park Visitor Center and did two snowshoe hikes on 8 feet of snow, one up a small rope tow ski slope and the other along the unplowed road used for cross country skiing. Enjoyed a video of the park at the visitor center and a ranger talk on wildlife illustrated with real pelts of coyote, elk, deer, marmot, etc. Coyote have replaced the wolves killed off by ranchers and now prey on the unique Olympic marmots. On drive down saw black tail deer by roadside.
Sat May 6 – Hike on Boulder Trail along Mary Lake. Blacktail deer grazing on trail. Dam at head of lake due to be removed to restore salmon runs.
Sat May 6 Hike on Boulder Trail along Mary Lake. Blacktail deer grazing on trail. Dam at head of lake due to be removed to restore salmon runs.
Sun May 7 – Walk around town, stop to watch a soccer game, and visit to new show (“Disaster” theme ) at Port Angeles Art Museum (memorable a painting of Washington DC with gondolas on canals) and walk through their large outdoor sculpture forest/garden.
Mon May 8 – To Seattle via Bainbridge Island ferry and HI hostel near waterfront. Walk to Pike Place Fish Market (also colorful fruit and vegetable stands and crafts booths) and Aquarium.
Tues May 9 – Challenging early morning drive to Dollar car rental return and flight back to Manchester.