September 3 – 24, 2002
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We flew out to Sacramento on Tuesday Sept 3 and were met at the airport by Alan’s sister Barbara, who drove us to her house in Davis, where the State Agricultural University is located.
The next day, after admiring her garden full of roses, we left by car for Mt. Lassen, first of the Cascade volcanic peaks in our itinerary. After a coffee break at the Sacramento Wildlife Refuge to see the displays of all the birds that would be migrating into there in November, we reached the south entrance fo Lassen Volcano National Park in midafternoon.
The late sun burnished the bare peaks of vari-colored volcanic mineral as we drove steadily upward from 1000 to 8000 foot altitude, leaving the lodgepole for the ponderosa pines. A herd of mule deer in the King’s Creek mountain meadow ambled into the trees.
Canyons, steep dropoffs and other breathtaking vistas entertained us until we left the park on the north side and made our way to our rather aged little cabin in Rim Rock Ranch, Hat Creek, CA. Luckily we found a brand new restaurant in Hat Creek with an appetizing menu.
The next morning (Thurs Sept 5) we went back into the Park for the Bumpass Hell up and down hike which starts in the forest and ends in the fumeroles, mudpots and hot springs. The first explorer, named Bumpass, fell in and burned his leg here. As we left the car we were entertained by the sight of a marmot sitting on a rock on the embankment. We ate our lunch on a huge log as we started back out of the steaming vents area.
Our afternoon walk was a short stroll through the Devasted Area, which was covered by lava in the eruptions of 1915 -1921 but has since grown a goodly cover of shrubs and small trees, just as Mt. St. Helen is doing.
On Friday we hiked the Cinder Cone Trail, starting at Butte Lake Campground north of the Park. The trail followed the Fantastic Lava Beds (dikes of lava higher than our heads) to the perfectly formed Cinder Cone, largest in the US, and the Painted Dunes below. Got a picture of one of the many golden mantel ground squirrels while resting on a log. Went a short way up the Cone but the loose sliding cinders and high altitude (pant pant) deterred us from a summit assault.
Saturday found us driving north toward Mt Shasta. First stop was a hike down to the foot of Burney Falls, 100 feet high and just as wide, since the water leaks thru the lava and streams down in curtains behind which black swifts nest and fly out for insects.
Lunch was a picnic at Lower McCloud Falls on the McCloud River and then a two mile walk along the river to the larger Middle Falls. We noticed the huge leaves of the umbrella plant or Indian rhubarb which were beginning to turn scarlet for the fall.
Sunday was a perfect day to hike on Mt Shasta, clear and cool but not windy. Drove up to the Ski Bowl first, where the road stops, and then back to Bunny Flat, where our trailhead was. Hiked two miles to the old Horse Camp, now a Sierra Club stone hut offering shelter to summiters in Avalanche Gulch. We went from 7800 to 8800 feet under ponderosa pines and Douglas firs. Oregon juncos and a mule deer were sighted. Lunch on a log in Avalanche Gulch with splendid views.
Monday Alan and I stopped at the Mt Shasta Fish Hatchery, oldest in the US, to see the rainbow, brown and speckled trout. The fingerlings were protected by wires with plastic ribbons hanging from them. A frustrated osprey dove and dove at the tanks but did not dare dip below the wires.
Then we drove 10 miles up and up a winding canyon road along the South Fork of the Sacramento River above Lake Siskiyou, often in narrow stretches just wide enough for one car. Luckily we met no one and were preceded by a police car, so reached the Gumboot Trailhead on the Pacific Crest Trail without incident. This was about 6000′ and we more or less stayed at that altitude for the two mile walk and back with awesome views on either side, since we were right on the watershed.
While eating our sardine sandwiches (where else?) on a log we looked up to see two cubs and a mother bear regarding us intently from about 100 feet up the trail. Luckily the wind was coming our way, so they did not smell our sardines and soon bounded off up the mountain.
Tues Sept 10 we headed for Tulelake and the Lavabeds National Monument. Stopped for lunch at the Lower Klamath (Lake) Wildlife Refuge and saw lots of grebes (western and pied), blacknecked stilts, big white pelicans, ruddy ducks, gadwells, blue teals, glaucous gulls, snipes, coots, cormorants and possibly widgeons.
On to a car tour of Tule Lake after a stop at the Visitors’ Center. (rufous hummingbirds and house finches at feeders) Sadly, these lakes were much, much larger at the turn of the century but have lost most of their acreage to farmers. Therefore the numbers of birds who visit have greatly diminished. Got a nice picture of a mule deer resting in the shade by an irrigation ditch near the town of Tulelake, where we checked in at the very attractive Ellis motel in an oasis of green grass and big willows.
Wed. we drove to Lava Beds National Monument. Next to the Visitors’ Center we explored the well lighted Mushpots Cave lava tube with many informative placards about lava icicles and other curiosities.
Also enjoyed the VC history of the Modoc War in which a small group of warriors with their families took refuge in the lava beds natural fortress which they now call Captain Jack’s Stronghold and for over a year held out against being sent back to the reservation of the Klamath tribe, with whom they did not get along.
Then took a 45 minute hike up Schonchhin Butte (500 feet above the park road)to the lookout tower for grand views of lava flows and mountains including Shasta. Back to the VC for lunch at a shady table and then to a shorter hike to the Black Crater.
Next day we drove to Petroglyph Point, a huge cliff formerly a wall of Tule Lake where ancient tribes have left mysterious pictographs. Above circled redtails anc possibly falcons.
Then to Captain Jack’s Stronghold to walk the Lower Trail before lunch and the longer outer trail in the afternoon that took us all around this natural lavabed fortress which had been used in olden times as a refuge in wars with other Indian tribes before being besieged by the US Army. The Modocs could get water from Tule Lake and drive in wild cows from directions the army could not approach because of the rough lava.
Friday morning Sept 13 the white fronted geese were flocking in to Tule Lake, the beginning of a larger migration to come. We headed north to Upper Klamath Lake finding on the way a big cluster of white pelicans, white fronted (black) ibis, grebes, egrets and ducks. At Rocky Point we rented a canoe for a two hour paddle on the canoe trail along the marsh, a nice outing but few birds (mallards, an osprey, a pair of plovers and a marsh hawk).
Then a rewarding drive up through Crater Lake National Park with the late sun sparkling off the 1900 foot lake and its picturesque islands and multicolored lava walls. This is the bowl of a hugh collapsed ancient volcano. Our first stops were along the steep canyon and falls of Annie Creek.
Saturday back to the Park for the long Rim Drive around the lake. Bev and Alan hiked 700′ down to Cleetwood Cove on the only trail that descends to the lake, a very nice wide gravel path with lots of switchbacks, to the dock where boats go out on
tours of the lake. Lunch with views of Mt Thielsen (9000′) to the north. Stops to photograph the Phantom Castle, an outcrop of andetite lava, and the phantom ship, ancient cone of a 400,000 yearold volcano. Short hike on the Sun Notch trail to closeup views of the latter. Stop at the North Crater Peak trailhead where a tourist was feeding Canada jays on a table. Then another short hike on the Castle Crest Wildflower Trail near the Visitors Center (slender red trumpets of scarlet gailia or foxfire still in bloom).
Sunday we first visited a buffalo ranch on Silver Lake Road east of Hy 97(2-3 hundred head?) and then the Collier State Park Logging Museum, the logging town of Chiloquin, and the site of Fort Klamath, which was burned a year ago but still offers the postoffice and some tent exhibits as well as nice shady picnic tables for our lunch.
Back into the Crater Lake Park for a final hike up The Watchman, a 500′ ascent to a lookout tower, from which smoke from active fires in northern Oregon could be seen. Also a stop at the Sinnott Memorial Overlook named for Congressman Nicholas J. Sinnott of Oregon who introduced much early national park legislation. This featured excellent geological exhibits.
Monday north to Bend, OR, with a stop at Newberry Volcano National Monument and a hike over the Molten Land Trail there with views pf glacier-topped Mts. Bachelor and Three Sisters. A Clark’s nutcracker, a big pale tan jay-like bird, was eating seeds near the parking lot. Stayed overnight with Mel and Judy Getz and their son Wyatt, old friends of Barbara, who entertained us royally with much hilarity.
Back to Davis for a week at Barbara’s house and some good tennis games, a hike up Stebbins Cold Canyon, a ride on the Russell Street bikepath on daughter Nancy and husband Dave Gray’s bikes, and a grand family feast with all the Kendrick clan. Also enjoyed the use of computers and reading at the Yolo County Library and the Putah Creek Cleanup Saturday.
All in all, a wonderful three weeks. Thanks, Barbara, and Friends and Family.
Bev and Alan