Thurs Nov 30 – Met Flightline at 5:15 AM in RW lobby for shuttle to Logan, took 9:50 Amer Air to San Juan and caught the plane to St. Thomas for arrival before 5 PM but heavy traffic held up our taxi to the Red Hook ferry so that we had to wait for the 7 PM one. Since rain was intermittent, we stood under an eave and sipped banana smoothies – which served as supper since the Tree Lizard al fresco restaurant at the Cinnamon Bay Campground was closed by our arrival time. Pushed our stuff on a cart to the cabin (not easy in the dark) and took 8D instead of 8B, which was occupied. This proved to be the right choice.
Fri Dec 1 – turned out to be a holiday celebrating the founding of the National Park, so once again there was no supper at the Tree Lizard. Kind neighbors (Whit and Sharon Nash) donated eggs and ham to save us from starvation. Took a walk along the extensive Cinnamon Bay beach and a short swim.
Sat Dec 2 – Took a taxi to Cruz Bay and bought groceries at the Delphin Market and checked email at Connections. Swim and beach walk. Small night heron on beach stood and stared at us for some time.
Sun Dec 3 – Snorkel to island (cay) in Cinnamon Bay, finding mostly bleached coral and few fish on the landward side. Kestrel in campground posed on a branch. (Sparrow Hawk) The next day we found feathers from one of his meals. Attended the Xmas gospel concert in the Cruz Bay Ball Park after dinner at the Fish Trap Restaurant – Children’s parade, high school bands, Carib drum group, exotic African lion dancer. Also bought tickets for the trip to British Tortola on Alan’s birthday and signed up for the Park Reef Hike at the Visitors’ Center. Had a beer at JJ’s in the park and bought children’s tee shirts.
Mon Dec 4 – Hiked the Cinnamon Bay Trail from the campground up to the Centerline Road (2.4 miles RT) and took pictures from a viewpoint overlooking the bay as well as one of a huge termite nest
Tues. Dec. 5 – Taxi to Haulover Bay with Sharon and Whit (from Kalamazoo). She is a retired family physician. Found clear snorkeling in a windless bay. Saw squid but again coral mostly bleached. Watched a skua diving for fish.
Wed. Dec. 6 – Pearly eyed thrasher posed on our frying pan on the patio grill. A visiting hen settled under our picnic table who returned most days to do the same. The new frisky baby donkey and watchful mother stopped by.
Thurs. Dec. 7 – Alan’s Birthday; taxied to Visitors’ Center dock at 7:30 and were picked up by the fast launch from St. Thomas for the 1 ½ hour bouncing ride to Virgin Gorda, BVI Tortola. Here passports were checked and $20 fees paid. Then at the Virgin Gorda batholiths – huge magma boulders pushing up from colliding of continental shelves. A swim to beach and barefoot walk among, under, and around immense variously shaped gigantic rocks. Short ride to snorkeling site over fairly active coral reefs, Lunch at famous Pusser’s Restaurant at Marina Cay – mahi mahi sandwich plates and conch chowder and Alan’s birthday mud pie, with singing, Last stop at Jost Van Dyke Island, another swim to beach known for the Soggy Dollar Bar, but having plentiful drinks on board we just took a beach walk. Short ride back to Cruz Вау – a memorable day.
Fri. Dec 8 – Lameshur Bay with Sharon and Whit. Lovely calm swimming but dead coral One ray, one puffer. Walked the Yawzer Point Trail to end of short peninsula where Whit saw a big iguana. Examined a bird nest in a large agave cactus (cactus wren?) Barrel and Vining cacti admired. Ruins of former slave mental asylum noted. VINP dock and Research Station.
Sat. Dec, 9 Hiked Caneel Hill Trail (2 miles) to Cruz Bay over Margaret Hill. Land crabs and snails on trail. Picnic in Park, beer at JJ’s, used ATM at bank and email at Connections.
Sun, Dec, 10 Salt Pond Bay and hike out Ram Head Peninsula (2 miles) where slaves made their last stand in revolt. Beautiful barrel cacti and views of Bay and Carrib. Snorkeled after lunch.
Mon, Dec. 11 Reef Bay Hike led by Park Naturalist. Shuttled to Trail head off Centerline Rd, 2 1/2 miles hike down to pickup at Bay. Many nature stops to discuss locust, kapok, jasmine, genip trees, anthuria and tyre palm (which supplied brooms, fish traps, etc.) Picnic at petroglyph pool. Explored ruins of sugar factory and rum distillery. Rubber dingy ride to boat after extra hike over hill to calmer bay. Happy hour drinks with Whit and Sharon at our cabin.
Tues. Dec. 12 – Last day in campground.
Wed. Dec. 13 Ferry to St. Thomas, tiny Bunker Hill Hotel in Charlotte Amalie, waterfront walk, dinner at nearby Cuzzins Restaurant.
Thurs, Dec. 14- 6 AM departure (had to find taxi on waterfront after scheduled one failed to show up at hotel) for airport and flights home, all on schedule, and Flightline shuttle back to RW.