June 5 – 19, 2004
On Saturday June 5 – we make the long drive from Exeter, NH, to Parrsboro, NS, on the northern end of the Bay of Fundy. The cottage belonging to Judy and Gary Morris is pleasantly secluded not far from the coast and lighthouse and turns out to have a resident pheasant and nearby shore eagle.
Sunday June 6 – in brilliant sunshine we drive east along the Bay for a hike at the Fox River Viewpoint, which overlooks Cape Split, whose ancient basalt cliffs and seastacks divide Minas Channel from the Bay proper. Great tides rushing in and out continuously scour the red sandstone cliffs on the mainland uncovering ever more gemstones and fossils. On to Cap D’Or for our picnic lunch and hike down to the lighthouse, noting a flock of eider ducks in a cove. Past Advocate Harbor to Chignecto Provincial Park to the Red Rocks Trail and the Christie View Trail.
Monday June 7 – is cloudy with spit showers but we head west along Fundy Bay to Five Island Provincial Park for a picnic in the car and a cliff top hike with many a climb over trees thrown down by last year’s hurricane. We stop for several views of Cape Blondemin, home of the Indian God Glooscap who, according to one of many legends, threw five rocks at Beaver for damming up the bay and created the Five Islands. Back to Parrsboro to visit the fine geology museum there.
Tuesday June 8 – a great 19 mile bike ride along the Northumberland Strait, where the roads are relatively level, from east of Pugwash to For River Harbor and back. Supper at Harbor View Restaurant, a shor walk from our cottage.
Wednesday June 9 – Splendid 4 mile hike to Ward’s Falls along the Diligent River crossing a dozen or more log bridges. Sunny and breezy with no bugs. Trilliam, verbena, shadblow, bunchberries in bloom…all early spring flowers that bloom in April at home. Picnic at Old Diligent Harbor, formerity a lobster boat dock, where the owner of the Harbor View Restaurant drives in to get sea water for his lobster tank. Happy to find free (donations welcome) computer access at Shaw’s Market, typical of little country store offering access to a high speed computer network for the local population.
Thursday June 10 – East along the Bay to Economy with a visit to a small family museum and former WWII bombing practice survey tower once located at Parrsboro. They practiced bombing small rocky islets and observers and the tower reported results. On a windy walk at Portapique Beach we disturbed an eagle sitting near a nest who flew up and screeched at us, hovering until we finished taking pictures and turned back. Stop at organic meat farm for frozen chicken halves and thick pork chops for grilled dinners at our cottage. Lunch at Economy Point and walk along cove. At Truro we took a look at the Salmon River Tidal Bore channel, unfortunately not at the time of high tidal action. Stop at local fish market for fresh shad and steamers. Shad was delicious when grilled tho it required careful eating to extract the fine bones.
Friday June 11 – Another fine bike ride along the Northumberland Strait from Tidnish, Baie Verte park, east to Amherst Shores and back. Llamas at a farm in Lorneville came down to look us over. Watched an eagle fishing on the bay. Apple blossoms next to our picnic table. Lobster supper at Harbor View a bit disappointing – overcooked and overpriced.
Saturday June 12 – we leave Parrsboro and drive via Halifax to Bridgewater near Lunenburg on the Atlantic coast and our next cottage on the shore of Fancy Lake owned by a German couple, Dieter and Gudula Mittner. Early mornings and late evening sunshine on the lake prove to be delightful, and there is a visiting loon and muskrat.
Sunday June 13 – A shore bike from the Lunenburg Tourist Center park to the fishing village on the peninsula of Blue Rocks, some 14 miles. Back for lunch at park.
Monday June 14 – another fine bike along the east side of the La Have River from Bridgewater to the ferry crossing and back. A head wind off the Atlantic slowed us down on the way out but hurried us back.
Picturesque Middle La Have Church on riverbend.
Tuesday June 15 – cloudy and showery so chose to visit Halifax Waterfront after getting an oil change at WalMart’s. Alan thrilled to find the Corvette Sackville on which his old Canadian canoe trip guide Ed O’Connor crewed in WWII and wrote a book. We toured the small quarters of this courageous little ship hat shepherded convoys across the Atlantic. Had a fine lunch at the Lower Deck Pub, rode the ferry to Dartmouth and back and took a look at the Bluenose II, a replica of the undefeated racing original.
Wednesday June 16 – to Kjemkujik National Park Seaside Adjunct on the south Atlantic coast where we took an ambitious 5+ mile loop hike around Cap Jolie. Wild blue flag (iris), black chokeberry, pitcher plants, pink sheep laurel in blossom.
Thursday June 17 – A stop at Port Mouton lobsterboat marina and thence a bike out to Indian Point from Port Mahone and back (12 miles) and picnic at the tourist center. Scenic drive out Second Peninsula with a stop at Bachman’s Beach for a shore walk and view of osprey nests. Back up the La Have River.
Friday June 18 – Down the coast to Port Medway Harbor and lighthouse and then to Medway Head Lighthouse where we walked a gravel road out to Long Cove and back. Found another tiny general store with free coffee and internet! Picnic at Petit Harbour. Rissen’s Beach shore walk and boardwalk with yellow crowsfoot in bloom, local kids swimming the frigid Petite Riviere and a pair of ospreys fishing. On to La Have River and Fort Point, first French Acadian fort (1632) and capital, now the site of a fine little Acadian history museum and a lighthouse.
Saturday June 19 the long trip back to Exeter via the Digby/St. John ferry.
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