January 8 – January 22, 2001
Hi Folks, Another travel report. If these bore you, just hit that Delete button.
Mon. Jan. 8 – We departed Albany early (not so bright), changed planes at Newark, and arrived early in the afternoon at Aruba’s brand new Queen Beatrix Airport having gained one hour to Atlantic time. The 80 degree temps were a bit of a shock after leaving the 20’s in upstate NY, but we gritted our teeth and adjusted.
Took a taxi to the nearby suburb of Pos Chiquito and were happy to find our studio apartment quite roomy and comfortable, with a lovely courtyard (fairy lighted at night) sporting a goldfish pool, bar, teensy lap pool (about two strokes long) and barbecue. Our kitchenette with breakfast bar was well equipped and we had a kingsize bed, large bathroom, TV and AC, all very reasonable at $50/day. Also two swim/snorkel areas in the neighborhood, a small Chinese grocery on the comer and a laundromat two streets over. If you are interested you will find SeaBreeze Apartments on the Aruba website but plan several months ahead as they only have 7 units and get a lot of European and repeat trade. One block from the oceanside, nice for sunset strolls.
Tues. Jan. 9 – Walked to ferry dock and took the five minute tiny ferry to DePalm Island, a private beach spa available to anyone for the $7 ferry toll. Alan promptly stretched out in a shaded lounge chair on the deck in front of the pub to do crosswords, but after awhile he was persuaded to climb down the dock steps for some great snorkeling both before and after lunch. This was the only place we found huge royal blue parrotfish, with big white lips, which circled around looking for handouts. Also saw our only green turtle on Aruba here. Also had a nice chat with Maggie and Charlie from NJ and picked up travel tips on Aruba and also on Bavaria: where we hope to go next year. Tomorrow will be a holiday due to the death of a popular minister in the govemment.
Wed. Jan 10 – a quiet day, everything closed for funeral of “Watty”, minister of public works. Took a walk thru the suburb of Pos Chiquito and an afteroon snorkel at the nearby beach, Mangel Halte, shallow but with some fish out near the reefs.
Thurs. Jan 11 – Decided to rent a car as the bus service over the island in general is not plentiful. Our hosts have a good deal with Avis and took us into the airport, where we rented a standard shift Suzuki Alto with front wheel drive (important on the dirt roads), very economical on gas. Only spent $25 in our 2 weeks here. Drove up along the waterfront in Oranjestad, capital city and port, stocked up on groceries at the Ling Supermarket. In the PM drove to the east end of the island and swam/snorkeled at Baby Beach, beyond the old (closed in 1986) oil refinery, a very popular lovely curved sandy beach protected by reefs, where the fish are found.
Fri. Jan. 12 – To Oranjestad (You can tell this is a Dutch protectorate) where the Tourist Booth directed us to the nearby Cyber Cafe so we could check email. Also found the local McD (very important) and bought a net bag for our snorkel gear at Aruba Scuba.
Then up to the other, western, end of the island to try the snorkeling at Malmok Beach, a stretch of coral ledges favored by the catamaran snorkel cruise boats. Lots of fish and very clear and calm (today). Parked under a divi divi acacia tree and ate our sandwiches, dropping crumbs to the ever alert blue-green lizards. Finished with a drive up to the Califomia Lighthouse for great views of the island.
Sat. Jan. 13. – Heavy showers (waterfalls) (Aruba only gets 18″ of rain a year and is mostly desert) during early morning hours and lasting into the forenoon (the only day that happened), so slept late and took laundry around the corner to a new automat where the friendly proprietoress offered to do the job and fold the clothes for pickup at the end of the day. So to town for souvenir T shirts, McDs, the Sonesta Casino (where we lost a dollar).
Sun. Jan. 14 – Drove up into Arikok National Park and took the short hike to the cunucu (old country house, adobe, 3 room) with cactus fence (they cut the organpipe cactus sections and replant them side by side to keep out the wild goats. They also built mortaress rock walls. Along the way we stopped to look at a cave with primitive Arawak Indian drawings in red and white, primarily a ducklike bird which is now the park logo. Drove to the top of Mt Arikok for picnic in the shade of an old radar installation up there (700 plus feet!). Usually we would do this 1.4K hike on foot but here it seems too hot. Enjoyed the orange and black troupial birds on the cactuses with their “yoo hoo” whistle. Lots of tiny doves as well.
Mon. Jan. 15 – Started the day at the Old Fort Museum in Oranjestad, the oldest building on the island. Inside there is a 19thC house and Indian artifacts. On to the Hotel Sonesta to sign up for a horseback excursion Wed. and a stop at the casino, where we are ahead $6. Picnic on the canal bank near the museum, then a drive up the coast to the Old Mill (a Dutch restaurant) and sanctuary/tower overlooking a couple of ponds. Coots, cormorants and an egret. To Arisha Beach, just below the Calif Lighthouse, for the best snorkeling yet in the late wester light.
Tues. Jan. 16 – To nearby DePalm island once more for clear waters, lots of fish and coral varieties. Flew our kite, which has now flown over Cozumel, Bomholm (Denmark) and DePalm (Aruba) islands. In the evening we went to the first Bon Bini Festival of this
year’s Carnival season, concerts of local music with local wares and foods for sale, held every Tuesday. It was at the Fort Museum. Enjoyed a platter of jerk chicken with veggie rice and pasta salad while listening to the barrel organ (tingy lingy box) with rasp player, the steel drum combo, the “Teenagers” (senior citizens doing elegant waltzes, tumbas (one steps) and foxtrots), and the Seabreeze Dancers, beautiful young girls in many orate costumes doing the African drum dance (tambu) and Carival dances as well as the waltz, one step and meringue. The latter was audience participation…just tip your shoulders up and down and keep walking. All very festive.
Wed. Jan. 17 – To Sonesta by 8:30 for van pickup and drive thru national park to Daimari Ranch (over dreadfully potholed road).
What a surprise to find big stables and excellent horses out in the middle of nowhere. We climbed one of the park hills and then headed down to the ocean for a swim in the Natural Pool, a small protected cove on this surf battered windward side of the island.
Lots of trotting and even two beach gallops on the way back. Some yellow and white ground flowers in the desert, possibly due to last week’s rain. Several bands of wild goats. Back in the city we ate our picnic on the waterfront in view of a huge cruise ship, one of several that arrive weekly. Took a walk around the marinas and stopped to photograph the Siberian tiger in a grotto by the harborside Sonesta. On our way home we stopped at the Balashi Brewery beer garden and signed up for a tour of this very new facility on Friday. After supper we joined a group of Swiss guests celebrating a birthday in our courtyard and enjoyed Marachi singers, who included a splendid bilingual version of “Happy Birthday”
Thurs. Jan 18 – Drove down the east coast in search or snorkle Site Boca Grandl, but could not locate it although we followed signs.
So back to Baby Beach for a good swim. Saw a large flounder “hiding” on a rock with his topside eyes blinking, big pufferfish, blue cigarsh swimming just under the surface. Watched ters diving. After lunch continued around end of island out of San Nicholas to the Lourdes Grotto, coral caves decorated with madonnas, artificial flowers and candles. Then to the largest coral cave on the island, The Tunnel of Love, which we paid to go through armed with flashlights and an auxiliary battery pack. It was 250 meters down, over and up to the welcome exit opening. We were thankful to find big red arrows pointing the way. Emerged into a sunlit cactus garden. Stopped outside another cave, the Guadirikiri, but just took a walk around the exterior and Alan climbed a small tower. On over the bumpy dirt road to Boca Prins, a surf-filled ravine with sand dunes the locals like to slide down. And then back thru Arikok National Park, town of Santa Cruz, and home.
Fri. Jan 19 – A morning walk along the shore toward DePalm Island and then a tour of the Balashi Brewery led by the brewmaster.
Impressed by the state-of-the-art, computerized operation (only 34 employes including sales stafi). Built by a German company (Brewtek?). To town for email and then up the west coast to Malmok again. This time we saw a small squad of squid hanging out and appearing to look us over. Millions of minnows spiral along these ledges and around us. Dinner out at the Royal Cabana seafood buffet… all the shrimp and crablegs I could every want. Also won $10 at the casino.
Sat Jan 20 – Drove to the Natural Bridge on the windward coast and took a walk over the coral to the next cove. Then to the Bushiribani goldmine ruins for a clamber around and a picture thru one of the roofless windows. And finally to Alto Vista Chapel, the original version of which was built by an early priest on a height overlooking the coast. The road in is marked by the stations of the cross. On up to Arishi Beach for the daily snorkel. The new fish today was large and black with white polkadots and a yellow smear near the tail. Back past the Royal Cabana to lose our $10 edge. At the McDs near the highrise hotels we glimpsed the small green parrots that are said to be here. A sunset walk for photos after supper.
Sun. Jan. 21 – Put on our hiking boots and took our hiking sticks for a rough hike on the coral ledges around the west end of Aruba beyond the California Lighthouse. Came on a small flock of plovers on the rocks and 3 oyster catchers. During lunch in the car under a divi divi tree a large flock of royal ters kept us company just offshore. Some kind of seahawk flew by… could it be the famous em of crossword puzzles??? A final glorious swim at Malmok ledges and this time we were astounded by numerous large garfish, olive green with blue spots and thready blue tails, that were hanging out amidst the swarms of minnows and looking malevolent with their big dark eyes. Alan saw a new kind of puffer with 4 hors and I saw one with yellow fins. This being Sunday, mostly locals were swimming. There are no cruise ships in port and most of the shops are closed. It is pleasant to breeze thru town where it is usually bumper to bumper traffic. One last stop at the Balashi Beer Gardens and a chat with a Ri couple who have been coming here for 12 years. The bar treated the four of us to a “yard of beer”, a long wooden tray with eight 8 oz glasses! The other lady and I were only good for one each but the guys handled the rest.
Jan. 22 – All too quickly we are repacking and take the car to Oranjestad for a last walkabout and picnic and then to the airport for our afternoon flight home, arriving back in Albany ahead of schedule at 9:20 PM. We recommend Aruba for everything except sunbathing, as there were complaints of windblown sand driving folks off the beaches. Here’s to More Great Getaways!
Bev and Alan
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